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Forest fibre use in clothing is on the up, but there are downsides

The use of forest fibres in clothing is on the rise and is increasingly in the spotlight. On the one hand, this is great news, as forest fibres provide a renewable and recyclable source of material for our clothes. But, on the other hand, we don’t always know where these fibres come from. And that is a problem. Source: Timberbiz

This was the focus of a recent panel discussion at the Innovation Forum Sustainable Apparel and Textiles conference held virtually, at the end of April.

Ben Gunneberg, CEO of PEFC, was on the panel, discussing possibilities to make the fashion industry more sustainable.

Fashion brands source around 6.7 million metric tons of dissolving wood pulp for apparel fibres a year. Various studies have found that about 50% of this supply is likely to come from a sustainable source. This means, at least 50% of these fibres are sourced from an unknown forest origin, which brings risks.

“If the source is unknown, we don’t know whether the use of these forest fibres is contributing to deforestation, or poor conditions for those living and working in the forest. “This is where PEFC chain of custody certification comes in,” Mr Gunneberg said. “Chain of custody certification tracks forest fibres along the supply chain, so we know that this material came from a sustainably managed forest and is not contributing to deforestation.”

PEFC-certified apparel can carry the PEFC label, enabling consumers to choose their clothes, knowing the materials are sustainable, and that they are helping to support forests and those who live and work in them. It is vital that all fashion brands and retailers know where the forest fibres they are using in their clothing come from.

“Brands and retailers can develop responsible procurement policies and guides for all their forest-based products, encouraging that they are delivered with certification. This can go beyond the fibres in the clothing to include packaging, store fixtures, and tags,” Mr Gunneberg said.

“They can also collaborate with their supply chain, supporting them to advance on certification, and therefore ensure that their supply chain can be traced back to a sustainable source. Brands are in such a powerful position; they can become the ambassadors for forests – giving the forests value and helping them to remain forests.”